The Old Fitzroy Hotel
12 October 2021
After what felt like an age, Sydneysiders are once again free of lockdown and are out and about in abundance – enjoying the sunshine, each others’ company, and of course – the phenomenal foodie scene our harbour city has to offer.
We decided to break our restaurant fast at an establishment that actually has been around for an age – 150 years to be exact: The Old Fitzroy Hotel. With an impressive Anna Ugarte-Carral in the kitchen (Momofuku Seibo, Firedoor, Hubert), the 3-month wait seemed worth it (if David Chang trusted her, so do we!).
We arrived for our 7.45pm reservation to a distinct buzz, and we could feel the ambience transcended simply the newfound freedom of being at the pub again. This place’s vibe is entrenched – as entrenched as the pub itself clearly is within the Woolloomooloo locality. It fits into the quiet street like it’s part of the furniture – tables spilling out onto the road, friends old and new gathered jovially over a beer or three.
We were ushered upstairs to our table in “Brasserie Fitz”, The Fitz’s answer to the elusive “gastro pub”. The décor is fun – whimsical without being over the top, taking inspiration from a classic Parisian bistro but with an almost Lewis Carroll twist. The music was good and at a decent volume – we could enjoy our conversation to the background of a Fleetwood Mac tune. It was equal part chill Tuesday night, equal part romance – if this isn’t already a rife first date spot, it should be.
Despite a limited beer menu, we were satisfied with the selections available. We also enjoyed the wines ordered, which to our delight actually tasted as described on the menu – my 2021 La Petite Vanguard Vermentino Sparkling Pet-Nat really did taste of “nashi pear served with a side of spritz”.
It took a while for the staff to take our order – but when they did, they were welcoming and warm, with an evident excitement about the menu which only made us keener for our meal. It also took some time for the food to come – but trust us, when it did – well, lockdown was over, and the world was right again.
We started with a salt cod fritter each, a tasty morsel of fried goodness. Our first big tick for Chef Ugarte-Carral was the sherry aioli served alongside – anyone that can elevate aioli is a genius in our eyes, and the vinegar hit from the sherry truly did that.
Next, we tried the confit albacore toasts with harissa and green olive. Our waiter told us this was fast becoming a favourite, and we could certainly see why – it blew our restaurant-deprived minds. The balance was exceptional – the crunch of warm toast, freshness of tuna, and saltiness of green olive – brought together with a smooth and subtle hint of olive oil that served as our not-so-subtle reminder that chef food just hits different.
We also could not resist and ordered the Joselito jamon. It was a small portion for $30, but we felt that we got what we paid for. The jamon melted in the mouth, and its luscious fattiness paired heavenly with the toasty crunch of the roasted almonds.
Moving onto mains, we decided firstly on the fregola with mussels. This was a fine bowl of comfort food – a perfect pasta for digging in with a spoon, no cutting or twirling required. There was a beautiful flavour of the sea throughout without at all being fishy, and a divine almost cheesy richness. We assume it wasn’t cheese (not traditionally paired with seafood), but a kind of mussel emulsion – probably involving a lot of butter. One of us thought it was a little under-salted, but the other (me) felt it was perfect – an acidic hit served to cut through the richness, lifting the dish in the same way a pinch of salt would.
For our second main – how serendipitous it was that the rainbow trout had sold out, as our next choice, the Duck Maryland with pomme puree and radish, was wonderful (“Thank duck for that”, one of us (not me) exclaimed). It was perfectly cooked, with finger-licking good crispy skin better than the best roast chicken you’ve ever had. The pomme puree was silky and decadent – basically a cloud in food form, while the radish and pops of wilted green brought a welcome earthiness.
Along with every other table, we also had the fries (yes, the duck came with pomme puree – but to be fair, we ordered the fries as a naughty accompaniment to the rainbow trout which came with green beans – and it would have just been rude to cancel them, no?). They were damn good chips (although the bearnaise alongside was a touch eggy and not quite lemony enough for my liking).
Lasting impressions, you ask?
Overall, The Fitz offers a great atmosphere and delicious, elevated pub grub which speaks to the experience of the chef.
Prices are reasonable such that your visit can be what you want it to be – some beers and snacks with friends, or a three-course meal and wine with a loved one.
It’s an absolute must for locals, and worth the trip for those further afield.
*** UPDATE ***
19 November 2021, 5.45pm
We’re eating a pea & quail egg tart and our words. After returning to The Old Fitzroy just a few weeks following our first visit for some post-work drinks and nibbles with friends, we’ve upped our score to a noteworthy 4/5.
That same buzzy atmosphere welcomed us with open arms, but the first whispers of summer have seen the windows thrown open, the balmy breeze swirling in, and a fresh menu with tempting new items to try.
We got the Ricotta & tomatoes (Is there anything more comforting than melty, warm ricotta? Perhaps only when paired with bursting, vine-ripened tomatoes), Prawn cocktail with avocado mousse (We know you love a fresh prawn – and trust us, they are even better when coupled with this rich, smooth avocado paste), and Pea & quail egg tart with Galician cheese (A must-have – marrying buttery puff pastry, flavourful pea puree, pungent melted cheese and a runny egg).
All the while – soaking up the prolonged daylight, vibrant conversation, and endless dirty martinis. The Fitz is non-negotiable people – get there ASAP.
