Pepito’s

4 February 2022, 8.15pm

It’s takeover week here at worst seat in the house! That’s right – the boss has allowed me (yes – “the other of us”) to write this week’s review of Pepito’s.* Buckle up – it’s going to be saucy (just like the ceviche).

Ahh Pepito’s – this cool little “rocking neighbourhood taberna” in Marrickville delivers what is promised. The food is authentic, the punk rock vibe and occasional screamo track are distinctly unauthentic.

I know people say that you eat with your eyes first – but man, walking into Pepito’s – the wafting aromas of coconut and fried fish made me salivate. Thankfully before I started to drool, we were greeted by the seriously sweet staff and seated at a table of our choosing (!). 

A moment later, we were offered drinks: “One pisco sour!” screeched the boss. Better make that two. And it was a good thing too – these frothy, limey concoctions had me speaking in Spanish they were so asombroso. Sorry! So amazing.

With exposed brick and peeling paint to boot, it feels as if by magic that they’ve created a trendy-as restaurant in a dilapidated building undeserving of it (not dissimilar to your local taquero setting up shop roadside and serving the best damn tacos you’ve ever had).

Now, back to that thing about speaking Spanish – loaded up with classic Peruvian dishes, we needed the menu explained to us pretty much line by line. Luckily, the waiters happily obliged. 

Forgoing any previous semblance of restraint and now just drooling all over the boss, I oversaw the ordering and order I did. Despite us surely smashing some kind of world record for menu decisiveness, the food was rather slow to materialise. When our neighbours’ first course arrived before ours (even though they ordered afterwards), I got up, took it and ate it. Sorry … did I just say that out loud?

OK, I think by now you get the gist that I was hungry, so let’s get stuck into the food.

Nothing says Peru like ceviche, and Pepito’s Leche de Tigre (fish, prawns, calamari, lime, chilli) was insanely fresh, very spicy, and super limey (maybe too limey, if we’re honest). For such a small dish, it was certainly complex, pumped with herbs and spices we couldn’t pick. It was difficult to share served in a glass, although this was probably the way to go given the amount of liquid – which we learnt from Anthony Bourdain is the most traditional style of ceviche. Actually – speaking of Anthony Bourdain, this place reminds us of him.

Who doesn’t love a pork?

Pork slider that is. After the ceviche, we had one Pan con Chicharron (pork belly, criolla, sweet potato, chilli) and one Pan con Pescado (crispy fish, spicy pickle, Nikkei aioli). Both were perfectly constructed, with crunchy but soft rolls and plenty of delicious filling. The fattiness of the pork paired well with the tangy criolla, a salsa found throughout Latin America based around thinly sliced red onion pickled in vinegar. It tasted bad for you, in a very good way. Contrast the pescado, reminiscent of a Vietnamese banh mi with fresh Asian herbs and soft, flaky fish in a crunchy, peppery coating.

Next came the Lomo Saltado Tequeños, which translates to bloody beautiful in English. Tequeños are basically Venezuelan spring rolls, usually with queso blanco inside. Pepito’s take was filled with Peruvian beef stir-fry, and served with rocoto tartare (a thick and spicy aioli made with peppers). We loved the bite of the crispy puffed tortilla casing, and the smoky beef filling loaded with spices. 

You say Potato, I say Papa a la Huancaina.

Alongside the tequeños, we ordered this popular Peruvian potato plate (say that five times fast). The potatoes were pure in flavour, a garnish of pickled onions with chilli and coriander cut through the carbs, but the main event was the rich Huancaina sauce. It reminded us of hollandaise with a funky almost anchovy saltiness to it – but no, we were way off, our waiter advised it was feta-based (I think we are just really obsessed with anchovies).

We finished with the Pollo a la Brasa, also known as Peruvian grilled chicken skewers. The meat was charcoaled and succulent, but again, it was all about the sauce – this time, an incredible bright green aji verde – herby, garlicky and smooooth.

At this point, I have to say I wasn’t particularly full. While I guess (reading back) we’d eaten a lot, it somehow hadn’t felt like a full meal. Most dishes came with some form of aioli and the same onion / coriander / chilli garnish. Perhaps changing things up a bit may have helped to signpost the meal and deliver a more fulsome experience. That is not to say it wasn’t all very tasty, by the way.

Then came dessert, and it was the boss’s time to drool. She loves caramel, and the sweet treat on offer was an espresso-sized pot of manjor blanco, Peru’s answer to dulce de leche. I can’t say much as she ate all of it while I was in the bathroom, but she’s assured me it was heavenly.**

Lasting impressions, you ask?

We are grateful for places like Pepito’s, which open doors to exciting cuisines and in the process transport you across the globe. They are the true forces of Sydney’s diverse culinary scene.

With great atmosphere, staff and drinks (and food well on its way), you’re sure to have a fantástico time. Sorry! A fantastic time.

* She did change most of it though (what can I say, happy wife happy life).

** The boss here: It really was. Think extra special caramel, deep in flavour with a slight tartness, and a light fluffy texture that hits your tongue to become sticky and creamy. More please.