La Salut

28 November 2021, 6.30pm

My personal love of food has always been most deeply rooted in the Italian cuisine. But, backpacking through Spain way back when – as a green 21-year-old and foodie in spirit but not necessarily knowledge – opened my eyes. To tapas and pintxos, jamón and padrón, bocadillo and bacalao – and everything in between. So, you can imagine our delight when we heard that the team behind our favourite pasta spot, Ragazzi, was opening a Catalan-inspired wine bar, La Salut.

As we walked in for our 6.30pm reservation, we were smacked in the face by the most intoxicating smell of garlicky goodness. Strong start, we thought. The place was full, the diners loud and having fun. The kitchen was in view from our seat at the bar, where we could see the staff having fun too. It’s a bit of a party here, and our Sunday Scaries were quashed within minutes.

The décor made us happy, with endless wine bottles and colourful pantry staples lined haphazardly along the bar – not as inorganic ornaments but truly for function, within reach of the busy chefs. Despite only opening on 5 November, the restaurant ran like clockwork. The waiters are seasoned experts, effortlessly cool but not at the expense of attentiveness. 

I was overjoyed to find kalimotxo on the drinks menu, which is a moreish mix of red wine and coke (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it). It is super refreshing and (unlike sangria) not too sweet, so accompanies the punchy drinking food served at La Salut perfectly. It can also be ridiculously easy to down, but charging standard cocktail price here did limit things a bit (it will only set you back a couple of euro in Spain).

We frothed on the food menu – the listing of delicacy after delicacy a sign of what was to come. We were impressed at how it challenged us, containing several items unfamiliar to our (and no doubt Sydney’s) food lexicon. We couldn’t wait to dig in.

First up, we tried the Mussels & chips al Morro Fi. Named after a vermouth bar in Barcelona, this snack really was reminiscent of a hot summer spent in the lively city (Chef Scott McComas-Williams’ stated aim). The gist – thinly-cut crisps showered with smoky paprika and interleaved with tender, intensely briny pickled mussels. Then it’s up to you how much of Fabbrica’s outstanding hot sauce you want to add (our tip: a lot). We can imagine this one being a little divisive, but for our part, we were more than up to it and demolished the whole bowl.

Next, we had the Anchovy with tomato & manchego. An anchovy-based snack has become a pre-requisite at Love Tilly Group venues. At Ragazzi, they are served on sliced bread with herby garlic butter. At Dear Sainte Eloise, they are served on toasted brioche with sweet & sour pickles. La Salut’s iteration is possibly our favourite, each ingredient bringing out the best in the others to offer a totally balanced bite. The fried cracker was like a decadent Sao, the juicy tomato burst with flavour and a delicate acidity, the manchego was whipped to a creamy consistency but its taste no less sharp than the cheese’s crumbly original state. And the anchovy – of course – had its signature fishy salty lick-your-lips extravagance.

It goes without saying that you should order one of the cured meats. We went with the Jamón Serrano, which was the least expensive option, but still divine (as it should be). It was hammy and fatty, smooth and supple, and only highlighted by the crusty ciabatta served alongside. 

After that came the Tuna with vizcaina & wasabi. The tuna, prepared ceviche style, was incredibly fresh in taste and gorgeously glossy in texture. The gentle spritz of wasabi throughout was delicious, and the dollop of vizcaina (a salsa roja made of choricero peppers) was a piquant addition – to me, almost like sweet chilli sauce (although I was accused of being basic for suggesting this!).

Next up we each devoured a Mushroom & San Simon croquette – the other of us in a record 2 seconds flat. As one expects of a croquette, it was battered to crispy perfection. The mushroom was meaty in flavour, with a decent kick of pepper that paired well with the smoked cheese selected for the melty filling.

Onto larger plates, we started with the Octopus with sobrasada & chickpea. At this point we realised our meal had gone from strength to strength, and that La Salut might just be our new favourite wine bar. The flesh was miraculously tender (we barely had to chew) and actually tasted of octopus rather than simply soaking up the sauce. Cooking it a la plancha introduced a heavenly char, which was complemented wonderfully by the warm spice and smokiness of the sobrasada (a spreadable salami flavoured with paprika). The chickpea element was basically hummus – but an extra silky and savoury version.

We then had the Butifarra with clams & beans. We cannot sufficiently express how mouth-watering the sausage was. Similar in taste and texture to mortadella, it was both hearty and airy, with an unmistakeable pork flavour accented by salt and subtle spice. Just exquisite. The sauce was unctuous, laden with butter but lifted with vinegar. The clams gave an interesting (possibly not needed?) pop of seafood, while the butter beans and split peas brought a welcome vegetal component.

The finale came in the form of an Almond & macadamia tart with peaches & vermut. We felt the pastry and filling were a touch overdone, but forgot that pretty quickly in light of how scrumptious it was. The buttery, nutty flavour worked beautifully with the tartness of the fresh peach and tanginess of the crème fraiche, and the last-minute sprinkling of fragrant thyme was a slam dunk.

Despite the rich food, at the end of our meal, we felt light – ready for more drinks and perhaps a dance, as the Spanish do. We suppose that is the magic of tapas – a bit of this, a bit of that, one drink here, another drink there.

Lasting impressions, you ask?

La Salut brings a real slice of Barcelona to Redfern, with an authentic menu that challenges Spanish cuisine as Sydneysiders know it and a candid atmosphere verging at times on a party. Just as it should be at a wine bar – fun is the aim, happiness the result. 

Prices are on the higher side, but our night here was worth every cent. Most pleasingly, it offers what European cooking is all about – simple food, expertly executed. We will be regular visitors until the day we can travel freely again – and honestly, probably long afterwards.